This week I’m in Austin, Texas for the first time, enjoying
the sights and definitely the sounds of the funky musical city in the
heart of Texas. I’m finding that this city is dripping with good music, on
popular clubs on 6th street to ancient watering holes to
world-renowned festivals and street performers. In between my nightly ritual of
beers and bands and buying way too many overpriced t-shirts because they have
my favorite band on them, I decided to dig into the musical history of the city
with the mantra, “Keep Austin Weird.”
The musical roots started in the late 1800’s when the
Germans who settled in and around Austin started playing music in German Beer
Gardens like Dessau Hall. As time went on and big band and blues turned into
the birth of rock and roll, Dessau Hall was hole to visiting bands like Glenn
Miller and his orchestra, country legend Hank Williams, and a cocky kid with a
guitar who liked gyrating his hips to make the girls scream named Elvis
Presley.
Meanwhile, on the African American side of Austin – the east
in the still-racially segregated south – smaller musical venues like Ernie’s
Chicken Shack, Charlie’s Playhouse, and Big Mary’s were part of the
"chitlin circuit," which featured big bands, jazz and blues. Within a
decade, Austin’s East Side and West side of town were hosting some of the
biggest acts in the country like Duke Ellington, Ray Charles, B.B. King, and
Tina Turner as they bused their way towards California.
Country music exploded in Austin in the late 1960’s, when a
young Willie Nelson and others made Austin their adopted musical home. The
Vulcan Gas Company – later evolving into the Armadillo World Headquarters –
brought acts as diverse as reggae, ska, punk, indie, country, and rock in the
1970’s.
Punk and New Wave took Austin by storm in the late 1970’s
and three local bands – the Skunks, the Violators, and the Big Boys – worked
tirelessly to bring some anti-establishment coolness to the city. Their musical
underground credibility brought in bands like the Police, Joe Jackson, Blondie
and Talking Heads, the Clash, Elvis Costello and Blondie to come and play – and
often jam with the local groups.
But there was no bigger local hero than Austenite Stevie Ray
Vaughan, who exploded onto the blues scene and won a Grammy shortly after,
taking home the trophy for best contemporary blues album in 1990. Shortly
after, he lost his life in a tragic helicopter crash and the city memorialized
by building him a statue on the shores of Austin's Lady Bird Lake.
Whether it’s 35 10-foot guitars standing along the sides of
the street courtesy of Gibson or PBS’s music show, Austin City Limits – the longest
running music television program ever, Austin’s reputation as the Musical City
is still growing. Now, Austenites and hundreds of thousands of people from all
over the world enjoy South by Southwest, the annual music, media, and
entertainment festival that goes by SXSW. But it’s not alone, as other popular
musical festivals include Carnaval Brasileiro, Urban Music Festival, Texas Wine
and Food Festival, Art City Austin, Old Pecan Street Festival, Republic of
Texas Biker Rally, First Night Austin, and Austin Psych Fest.
Notable Austin homegrown musical acts or adopted sons
include the Butthole Surfers, Gary Clark Jr., the Dixie Chicks, the Fabulous
Thunderbirds, Willie Nelson, Daniel Johnston (one of my favorites), Janis
Joplin, and of course, Stevie Ray Vaughn.
So book a plane ticket to Texas, get ready a vacation filled
with beer, sunshine, “Howdy, y’alls” and plenty of amazing music to sample.
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